{"id":3363,"date":"2017-09-08T14:31:00","date_gmt":"2017-09-08T14:31:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/earthempaths.net\/wp\/?p=3363"},"modified":"2019-12-08T02:18:53","modified_gmt":"2019-12-08T02:18:53","slug":"twenty-one-days-on-the-danube-a-journey-of-endurance-and-grace","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.earthempaths.net\/wp\/2017\/09\/08\/twenty-one-days-on-the-danube-a-journey-of-endurance-and-grace\/","title":{"rendered":"Twenty One Days on the Danube | A Journey of Endurance and Grace"},"content":{"rendered":"

Preface:<\/strong> Some say that life is a journey while others state that we are eternal and all of our experiences are simultaneously occurring, it really is a matter of perspective which changes as our consciousness shifts and expands. This is our diary of a journey that brought both points of view together. It is also a story of love for when one steps in to the eternal that flows continuously there is only one heart beat and it is felt in all things.<\/em><\/p>\n

Written to inspire others to find the courage of their heart to challenge themselves with every breath. To let go of the installed beliefs of limits for there is no greater gift than to accept the freedom of Spirit on this boundless sea.<\/em><\/p>\n

Twenty One Days on the Danube | A Journey of Endurance and Grace<\/strong><\/p>\n

Thirty hours on a plane from Central Mexico to Bucharest, Romania seated in a suspended space of time only aware of the hour when I needed to make a transit from one plane to another. Arriving late I am greeted by the face of one I love so much, loaded into a vehicle and whisked out of the city to Giurgiu, a small hotel room and much needed sleep.<\/p>\n

Semi-awake the next morning we re-sort our baggage and prepare for the first day of our river journey. After a quick breakfast and shopping we take a crazy taxi ride as the driver didn\u2019t have a clue as to where we wanted to go so we finally use Google maps (which became my best friend and nemesis later on in our travels) to find a remote beach on the Danube. The day is spent assembling the Russian made kayak, of seemingly hundreds of interlocking tubes and parts. Since I could be of no help I sat waiting and pondering, my silent engaged observer content to be going somewhere unknown.<\/p>\n

“Courage is grace under pressure.\u201d\u00a0 \u2015 Ernest Hemingway<\/em><\/p>\n

\"AssemblingCristian puts the kayak together. It is portable when disassembled a very ingenious design.<\/em><\/p>\n

Slipping Into Silver \u2013 First Night on the Water<\/strong><\/p>\n

It was late afternoon when we took to the water, the full moon rising as night was approaching. The shine of the smooth water reflecting the sky was my first glimpse of what was before us. Cristian paddled the three man kayak through the night as I curled best I could in the seat at the bow of our craft. Lulled into a transcendent sleep as the sound of oars and water claimed me into a state of deep inner peace. When I woke it must have been 3 a.m. as I felt the kayak glide onto the white sand of a river island where we set our first camp, the moon still lit the sky and everything took on an ethereal glow as we slipped into our tent, briefly wrapped our arms around each other and then fell into a deep sleep.<\/p>\n

The squawking of river birds woke us in a few hours time. As we shook the sleep from our eyes we brewed a pot of coffee with its ever welcome scent, the first hot sips rising us further awake. By this morning all the time-lag has left and my brain returned to a coherent, \u201cI am here! state of mind\u201d.\u00a0 I recalled that yesterday I had spied the first of the kilometer markers letting us know that we had at least 488 km to the Black Sea, that number didn\u2019t mean much until later in the day.<\/p>\n

Having packed our gear on board the kayak we began our in unison paddling down the slow moving river. The Danube is very low due to drought in this portion of the world while torrential rains pour down elsewhere. These first hours are both wonderful and daunting as I realize the speed at which we are traveling, I content my inner dialogue with letting it know that we are in flow, are going to take it easy one stroke of the oar at a time and let each day reveal the next course. As was to become our rhythm we occasionally stop and then keep pushing on until we feel the tiredness set in so we scan the river banks for a special spot for the night. This evening as we turned a bend where the river divided we found a precious sandy inlet with trees and lots of dry firewood. Without words we set our camp in the shared communion of motion. Cristian finally speaks, \u201cI want to stay here for ever and ever.\u201d I nod knowing that we won\u2019t stay but share the sentiment of the quiet, the natural world around us that speaks on the wind, the crackle of the fire and the sound of water gently lapping the shore is all we need to be content.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Fishing\"We try fishing and I laugh inside watching our valiant impatient attempts. The one thing I know about fishing is you have to have the right bait and lots of patience. Ah well, perhaps luck would strike<\/em>.<\/p>\n

\"PaddlingOars to the water in one beat.<\/em><\/p>\n

Days and Nights Slide Seamlessly One Into The Other<\/strong><\/p>\n

We don\u2019t hurry our departure the next day as we bathe in the warm water then re-accommodate our supplies in the kayak. The sun grows hotter so eventually we push off. Through the lens of my left brain I watch the kilometers go by too slowly while my right brain and body engage with the river that flows beneath us. My senses pick up the river\u2019s dance, the variations of movement both side wise to shore and then surprisingly up and down, a sensuous snake like movement of undulating and barely perceptible waves. Sometimes it feels like we are paddling up hill then the long slow downward slide. I realize that this motion can only be felt by being so close to the water, the Kevlar covering of the kayak is only a few millimeters thick so it puts me in almost direct contact with the river.<\/p>\n

The day drifts by timelessly until hunger lets us know that a shore break is needed so we slip into Bulgaria the closest shore and nearest village. No border patrol, no check points, a moment experienced as a world without borders just as it should be. We find a simple riverside caf\u00e9 where we order fish and chips which are washed down with cold beer. The day was scorching hot and this moment is embraced for its comfort and the friendly service of the man who attended us.<\/p>\n

\"CristianPaddling at sunset we scan the shore for a campsite.<\/em><\/p>\n

Six Days On The River We Meet Adi<\/strong><\/p>\n

There have already been moments when I question why we are making this trip as the physical challenge of hours of rowing began to show on my body, not unwelcome for my arms and back are showing muscle while the hot sun has tanned my skin to a golden hue. The encampments are now a routine of unpacking and repacking though this is not unpleasant either. I am feeling challenged to let go further of any and all expectations, let go of a sense of obligation from across the world that plagues me in moments of tiredness.<\/p>\n

I allow myself to slip into states of consciousness that only experience the now moments, the one row at a time beat and then the resting float. It is the sun\u2019s emanations, the sunrises and sunsets that now mark the passage of time and keep our spirits uplifted by their beauty.<\/p>\n

\"FullSizeRender(5)\"<\/p>\n

We stop counting the hours, the days and the kilometers. When the mind stops all chatter what is allowed entry is a state of eternal presence where every action becomes one of graceful beauty in fluid motion. Seamlessly we move through the day, at moments laughing for we use the language of the child that only we understand. Occasionally we point out something we spot hiding in the bush or moving across the water, this is when we see our first water snake idly slither in front of the kayak, as soon as we focus our attention on his silent movements he senses us and moves quickly away, this happens every time with the many snakes we encounter as the connection through the airwaves of spirit is revealed.<\/p>\n

We are on a part of the Danube where there aren\u2019t any villages within reach. The afternoon grows long, I am tired as the day before I had a headache from the relentless glare of the sun on the water boring deeply into my skull. By this afternoon I am fully recovered from its lingering effects though my body is seeking refuge and comfort. We\u2019ve also experienced the first strong headwinds that make paddling an exercise of willed strength, missing one stroke and we are blown backward on the river. What surprises me is how strong my body is and how much vitality is called forth in these moments of endurance, something I\u2019ve learned to be grateful for.<\/p>\n

The river banks are high on this bend so we know we have a paddle ahead to find a campsite when we spy in the distance a few men standing on a cliff bank, they are waving at us and beckoning us to their shore. This greeting is irresistible so we ground our kayak on the narrow beach then climb up the steep bank hanging on the tree roots and a well placed knotted rope. We are embraced by a rotund man who tells us his name is Adi and whose laughter is as big as his belly. Within fifteen minutes we are seated at his long makeshift kitchen table with a bowl of hot Romanian stew, huge slices of polenta, fresh cheese and shots of homemade sour cherry liquor being poured.<\/p>\n

This is grace and you simply can\u2019t say no to her. Both Cristian and I are mostly vegetarian and its been years since I\u2019ve eaten a meat stew, it is a split moment of knowing that says go ahead for to refuse this meal would be to counter the gifts offered. I won\u2019t go to philosophy here but I will simply state that it was the cleanest best stew I\u2019ve ever tasted, there is a huge difference when one cooks on fire with what is given from nature and not purchased in one of those horrible super markets of slaughtered animal flesh. We thanked our host profusely and were offered a bed for the night which we gratefully accepted.<\/p>\n

\"AdiAdi, a retired sailor and a most excellent wood fire chef, a gracious good humored host.<\/em><\/p>\n

There are a few other men visiting this fishing camp, a sea captain and his friend. Even a few locals come by and to our delight one man offers Cristian the opportunity to ride his horse. Another gift as Cristi has never been on horseback a dream fulfilling and a more fine spirited animal could not have been delivered.<\/p>\n

Happiness sparks the air in moments like these…<\/p>\n

\"CristianCristian riding Blondie, a contented man. We also went on a buggy ride pulled by two galloping horses, I decided to name them gypsy horses for their spirit of wild freedom.
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

\"PeacefulA gentle soft sunset reflecting the peace of a perfect day.<\/em><\/p>\n

The Days In Between and Changing Horizons
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

We set off around 10 a.m. the next morning never knowing what we would find downstream, not knowing that morning we were going to enter an industrial part of the Danube with big oil tankers passing or the slow moving barges being pushed to unknown destinations.<\/p>\n

\"BargesClouds appear and disappear as do the barges and oil tankers. We watch them pass … <\/em><\/p>\n

The wind picks up at times in hard blowing gusts then moments of calm as we paddle on. Landmarks we’ve marked on the map are met and passed though we occasionally stop for supplies, a bottle of wine, some fresh vegetables and the fuel of the trip for us has become a cold beer for Cristian and smokes for me.<\/p>\n

\"ChristinePerspectives change on a river with a constant of new horizons forming in the distance.<\/em><\/p>\n

Rested and revitalized this day moves easily into the next and the next as we make two camps captured in my memory now as one flow. Animal spirits have greeted us and shown us how precious are their gifts finding them as life is lived simply and pared down to only what is necessary. We’ve met a hawk perched on the branches of a half sunken tree as we pull one camp then a dragonfly plays with us on a rest stop and there is even one big scare as a water viper that had made his bed for the night at the rear of the kayak decides hours into our paddle to show its self as it slithered out between Cristian\u2019s legs \u2026 we didn\u2019t jump overboard though that was the impulse, what we did do was straddled the kayak paddling standing on the side rails that held it together to get to shore.<\/p>\n

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Save<\/span><\/p>\n

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Viper on board!<\/p>\n

\"chockingWe had to unpack all our gear and Cristian found a long stick to force him from his hiding place.<\/em><\/p>\n

There he is hiding in the shadow a rather large one too. After pinning him with a stick and many attempts to wrap him around the sticks he grew rather docile so we were able to tangle him up and throw him overboard. This was the first of two events, the second much scarier as the viper made his presence known by climbing up Cristian\u2019s back under his tee-shirt and then down across the top of his legs, we had a much smaller and more hissing mad snake to deal with but managed just when we were considering we would have to kill him.
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

\"ViperI did some research on the internet and from the best I could determine they are known as Danube Delta vipers, poisonous though not usually deadly we still were cautious to\u00a0 not get bitten.<\/em><\/p>\n

~~~<\/p>\n

Strong cross winds blew us ashore as nature’s way of letting us know we needed a rest stop. We had seen many horses along the banks even some wild ones so when we met this stallion that wandered over to greet us an apple was offered and he accepted my caresses around his head and neck.<\/p>\n

\"CristiA stallion greets us.<\/em><\/p>\n

Cristian got out to walk the kayak upstream as the wind was blowing in strong gusts, sometimes we just got out and out tired of paddling so hard, only making 3 km an hour it got discouraging. We couldn’t fight with these moments though we would sometimes grumbles as tensions were released. To appease the wind, we started offering her cookies which sometimes helped and a cookie or two along the way for us was always enjoyed.<\/p>\n

\"ShallowBetter walking than paddling.<\/em><\/p>\n

We had a few forced rest stops in which we managed to make the most of the moments even finding time to take a nap as there seemed no hurry to get anywhere. Pulling our sleeping mats from the kayak and laying under the shade of a tree we let the physical tensions dissolve into the Earth then finding that when the gaze is freed from inner struggle there are amazing little things all around to be perceived.<\/p>\n

\"Dragonfly\"Dragonfly that played in the branches of a tree above our head for during the whole stay of our rest stop while we dozed under the shade of a tree and ate crackers with cheese washing them down with our last warm beer.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"DragonI played with my iPhone and experiment with black and white images.<\/em><\/p>\n

“The dragonfly is symbolic of transformation and change, something that connects us with the spirits of nature and offers us joy. When a dragonfly is noticed you are being called upon to transform and evolve into a better version of yourself. She sparks the imagination to go beyond limits of perception.”<\/em><\/p>\n

We pull to shore for the night, once again unloading our gear and setting camp. I never took pictures of our dinners but I managed to make some darn good meals over the campfire with a small pot and cheap fry pan. This night as Cristi set tent I made roasted eggplant pasta sauce with spicy chilies thrown in. We opened a bottle of wine which along with the pasta made any hardship of the day melt away.\u00a0 We laid down that night in our tent home to the sound of popping wood in the embers of our fire.<\/p>\n

\"UnloadingUnloading the kayak for the night, two food bags, two water proof bags with tent and sleeping bags. We also had two backpacks and my sundries with electronics in another water proof pouch. Amazing that we never left anything behind.<\/em><\/p>\n

~~~<\/p>\n

A funny anecdote before I close this chapter. I was hanging up a line to dry the clothes that I had washed in the river while we floated, as we had found a high ground camp with lots of trees I walked a short distance and while tying the line around the tree trunks two things happen simultaneously, I heard a grunt of a pig then Cristian\u2019s alarm that it might be a wild boar. Well, I stood my ground and as I did a wasp stung my leg, normally I would jump or flee but being stared down by a big sow made me stand still. Once we got past the startle we were visited by the whole group, seems we made camp in their nightly grubbing ground.<\/p>\n

\"piggies\"Piggies!<\/em><\/p>\n

Sunrise with Moon and Mars visible. Every morning I would rise before Cristi and make some coffee, have a smoke and allow Spirit to speak as she does, in whispers and gentle urgings. This morning was exceptional in every way and by now I had remembered to have my iPhone ever ready.<\/p>\n

\"SunriseSunrise with Moon and Mars in the dawning light. <\/em><\/p>\n

“There are a thousand ways to kneel and kiss the ground, there are a thousand ways to go home again.”
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

\u2015 Rumi<\/em><\/p>\n

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Moments of Beauty Captured Along the Way<\/strong><\/p>\n

“Let children walk with Nature, let them see the beautiful blendings and communions of death and life, their joyous inseparable unity, as taught in woods and meadows, plains and mountains and streams of our blessed star, and they will learn that death is stingless indeed, and as beautiful as life.”<\/em>
\n\u2015 John Muir<\/em><\/p>\n

\"FullSizeRender(5)\"Every sunrise was beautiful.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"ChristineRecovering from my headache and still dizzy Cristian found a solitary sunflower who allowed him to pick her. Grateful for a woman knows she\u2019s loved when gifted a flower.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"SacredSacred Fire ~ Lighting a fire every night for warmth and cooking one quickly finds out just how sacred of a gift fire is. The evenings we spent watching the dry wood burn to embers is a language, one that imparts knowledge of things unspoken.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"HorsesAlways a delight was seeing so many horses and other animals running or flying free.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"CristiBathing in liquid light.<\/em><\/p>\n

We Meet Sushi the Kayak Cat<\/strong><\/p>\n

As we made our way toward Br\u0103ila where we planned to buy some needed supplies we spotted some other kayakers and their well set encampment so we rowed to shore to meet them. A Romanian couple from Gala\u021bi<\/span> they are making their journey in a homemade kayak complete with sail and a small outboard motor, something we had wished we had many times already.<\/p>\n

They have with them a beautiful white four month old kitten named Sushi, another longing we shared was to have our cats with us as we would imagine them on the bow of the kayak sunning themselves and eating the fish we caught (we never did catch a fish by the way).<\/p>\n

\"Sushi\"Sushi after a meal of fresh live fish, she was adorable in every way reminding us the even “domestic” animals have a wild side, especially cats.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"CristiCat meets cat.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"KayakInspecting our kayak and sharing stories of life on the river.<\/em><\/p>\n

We didn\u2019t linger too long as we hoped to make Br\u0103ila before sundown so we said our goodbyes, held Sushi for a few more moments and wished each other a blessed journey we then set off.<\/p>\n

Turning the bend to Br\u0103ila a storm meets us head on.<\/strong><\/p>\n

As the day grew long the wind picked up, we were aware of the oncoming storm from checking our weather app and by the clouds building on the horizon. The way a river continually bends you change direction often and we soon found ourselves with strong steady wind gusting in our faces blowing so strong that no matter how hard we paddled our kayak came to a standstill in the water. Exhaustion begins to take hold so you acquiesce. Blown to shore Cristian and I got out of our craft, he pulled her along and I walked the shore just behind or along side on a rise in the bank.<\/p>\n

\"Tired<\/p>\n

With Br\u0103ila in our sight it was obvious we would not reach it to seek shelter for the night. Just as Cristian called it with the announcement that we needed to make camp soon before it rained an oasis appeared before our tired eyes, there was an abandoned camp complete with a three sided wind shelter made of sheets of packing plastic strategically wound between trees, ingenious and welcoming. As a friend later said, “Perhaps there is some good use for plastic after all.”<\/p>\n

\"ShelterShelter from the storm and camp is set.<\/em><\/p>\n

For us this was how Grace moved when we made no demands, she presented us with gifts that could only come from the Universe and all we could ever really do<\/em> was humbly acknowledge just how abundant she is. So while Cristian walked to the nearby village for a few beers I set the tent and gathered wood for our nightly fire. We rested that night with the howl of wind and the sound of rain drops pelting our tent embraced as we were by the sounds of a Mother\u2019s song we slept like children.<\/p>\n

We spent two days in this refuge relishing the needed rest and preparing for the last leg of our journey which would take us to our destination, the Danube Delta and the Black Sea. A quick micro-bus trip to Br\u0103ila for supplies left us exhausted by having to deal with the energy of unhappy people, traffic and big stores. Our recovery was equally quick on returning to our camp and lighting the night’s fire.<\/p>\n

\"Fire\"<\/p>\n

The following day dawned bright and calm as we assembled the sail for the long promised wind at our back. Neither of us are sailors though I grew up on the Pacific and have some recall of sailing as a child and younger woman some of which I managed to reboot such as tying knots and vague memories of how to tack in cross winds. There actually was some magic in allowing the freedom of not being trained experts guide us.<\/p>\n

\"PullingThe wind gusts had shredded part of the plastic during the night leaving us with a better view of calm waters.<\/em><\/p>\n

Phones and batteries are fully charged from the sun rays, kayak is once again assembled as we make our way back to the river. Obvious to us by now that we are river gypsies not able to stay still for too long in one place, even the slow moving current is welcomed rather than being land bound for too long.<\/p>\n

The sky held promise as the bright sun shone from behind big puffy white clouds. Br\u0103ila was no longer our goal we wanted to get as close to the delta as we could so off we sailed with the gentle breeze at our backs.<\/p>\n

\"GloryThe glory of the sun shining through clouds greets us rested and happy.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"SailOur sail is set and the wind is finally at our back!<\/em><\/p>\n

\"CristianSailing at sunset in peaceful waters.<\/em><\/p>\n

We make a quick camp at sunset not worrying to find the perfect place for this night as we know we will return to the river early. Even without the ritual of fire this night we slept well and I\u00a0 woke to experience a most beautiful morning for the night had grown cooler and the warmer water of the Danube formed a mist on the water with the rising sun. A quick coffee and we set off approaching a sweeping bend that turns the Danube East and toward Tulcea.<\/p>\n

\"MistyMist on the water at sunrise.<\/em><\/p>\n

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On Our Way to Tulcea, Metal Monsters, the Eclipse and Blown Off Course<\/strong><\/p>\n

There are hard days ahead as we make our way to Tulcea, a larger city and port on the Danube. The wind is less cooperative than we would like so once again have our oars in the water. The solar eclipse plays in and out of my awareness, of course we won\u2019t see it though the movements of our sun has been the guiding light of our journey tuned as we were to the emanations.<\/p>\n

My sight goes inward for awhile as rowing has become a constant beat it is in these moments I sense a split up ahead, both metaphor and real. I attempt to capture these feelings in black and white, more poignant and stark this vision.<\/p>\n

\"TheSolar eclipse day, the split in the river is made.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"GigantMetal monsters line the shore.<\/em><\/p>\n

Kilometers and kilometers of these metal giants are passed as we skirt the border with the Ukraine. We are stopped and our passports documented now to keep track of our movements. We slide into the Ukraine tracking the current in the middle of the Danube, it isn\u2019t wise to set ashore there, though we would have liked to just to be able to say we had.<\/p>\n

\"OilOil tankers, old iron barges, and some passengers ships plow these waters.<\/em><\/p>\n

Most of the ships carry petroleum or liquid propane. The old flat bottomed iron barges too are fitted with pipes though some are mounded with iron scrap or the dredged up silt that makes new land this far to where the Danube empties into the sea. We maintained a hyper alert state as to what might approach us from the rear for we would hear the hum of diesel motors in the distance.<\/p>\n

A split was made during the industrial revolution and what we observed over and over were the rusting and abandoned iron behemoths of ships, barges, warehouses and gigantic cranes. The refrain in my mind was that all this would soon be seen as archaic created as they were by human stupidity that these tossed off metal machines from our past represent.<\/p>\n

Some old wooden boats on shore, a contrasting reminder of the still preserved sane way of life butted up against a civilization of metal monsters. We have visited many small villages these past days where life plays out just as it does in every rural setting that remains relatively untouched by the upward mobile modern world.<\/p>\n

\"blkWooden boats at the split.<\/em><\/p>\n

Coming Ashore in Tulcea<\/strong><\/p>\n

Tulcea is a landmark for us as we are within a days reach of the Delta now. We made 45 km with the help of the wind, a welcome respite from hard paddling and making 20 km at best. To celebrate we decide to buy a meal, have a few beers and purchase any remaining supplies we might need.<\/p>\n

As we tie our kayak to the dock a small kayak shaped like a canoe pulls up next to us and we meet Willem from Holland, a friendly kayaker he introduces himself with his deep bronze skin and the crinkles around his eyes that come from staring into the sun. The three of us are instant friends as we climb the cement embankment to the wide boardwalk that lines the port of Tulcea, the first mission is beer as the two guys discover their common ground. Well the feminine won without trying as she poked her head into a shop and purchased some dark chocolate which was saved for later.<\/p>\n

We enjoy the extended time in the restaurant swapping tales while we had a meal of fresh fish, french fries smothered in fresh cheese and the traditional Romania tomato cucumber salad. Every one grows tomatoes in their front and back yards, there simply is no way to compare the flavor of a real tomato to what is passed off for food in the corporate run markets.<\/p>\n

Willem is enchanted with Romania and her people, he has been treated with warm hospitality and kindness from Serbia on through Bulgaria, he tells us Romanians are at the top of the list for their open graciousness. We share in the grace of the simple life, in the way we are greeted so abundantly by Source each day. We speak of the hardships too, the way you continually meet yourself and find you can out reach your limits.<\/p>\n

We decide to follow Willem on the left bank of the river as there is a group of many kayaks coming in from Germany in the next few days so he wants to check out their camp to possibly connect with them. He is welcome company and the idea of sharing our fire and food with him was bright in our minds.<\/p>\n

It didn\u2019t turn out that way as the unexpected happen in a few chaotic moments. We had pulled out into the Danube crossing from the right bank to the left on a long wide but sharp curve in the river. It was late afternoon and tour boat after tour boat were speeding to harbor, creating large rolling waves in their wakes. Interspersed were larger older iron boats plowing to harbor. As we took the curve the wind caught our sail in a sudden gust and we were speeding at a sharp list when the line holding the rudder suddenly snapped. Without the rudder we were careening starboard across the path of the incoming boats. Our only choice was to paddle with the flow, it was then that an older iron boat kept changing course ahead of us as we continued our course to cross to the shore not far ahead when we quickly found ourselves about to cross his bow and he wasn\u2019t slowing down. Cristian yelling paddle and me digging in my paddle to stop us\u2026 neither of us are trained on the water but all my nautical memory came full forward, you never cross the bow of an incoming boat!<\/p>\n

We made it to shore, myself shaken and raging. For the first time I lost it as I realized just how scary it can go wrong when you don\u2019t pay attention to your gear and lack of experience combine to create a possibility that could have been disastrous. Dear Cristian listened to me wail until I calmed down, we so easily forgive each other for our moments of complaint and grumbling though this time I went further needing to transmute what was really fear into tears and finally resting in gratitude that we were safe and now more experienced.<\/p>\n

\"WilemWillem is from Holland, his trip started in April as he made his way from Germany to Romania.
\nWe were to meet him one more time.<\/em><\/p>\n

Entry to the Delta<\/strong><\/p>\n

What happens on a journey of this nature which is a reflection of our lives is the realization that the moments of tiredness which beg you to call defeat or the moments of fear that want to tear you apart seamlessly collide with the astounding beauty and gifts of nature. Life isn\u2019t chunked up in blocks of artificial separation as we were flowing as one.<\/p>\n

“Every particular in nature, a leaf, a drop, a crystal, a moment of time is related to the whole, and partakes of the perfection of the whole.”\u00a0 \u2015 Ralph Waldo Emerson
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

\"EntryThe approach at the end of a long day.<\/em><\/p>\n

We spent a day of good fortune with a gentle wind and smooth water after our scare the day before. We had some choices to make now for the Danube Delta spreads out over many hundreds of kilometers. We had thought to go South however Cristian wants to visit Sulina, a historical port city on the edge of the Black Sea that even in this day and age has no highways leading to it so we choose that course. During the day I am thinking of writing Willem to let him know we are okay but the signal on my phone weak that I can\u2019t connect to my mail service. I send him messages on the wind and across the water.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_4520\"Land fall on a perfect shore.<\/em><\/p>\n

We stopped on this sandy beach to bathe in the clear water where no boats churned by, I hadn\u2019t bathed in a few days other than to wash my face so the plunge was revitalizing and most welcome. We were entering the Delta now as flocks of birds lifted from the trees sensing our arrival \u2026 A deep inner sigh is released as all tension float away in the water\u2019s caress and the song of birds.<\/p>\n

\"CristiA much welcomed bath in deep water.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"ShadowShadows playing on water.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"ChristineDrying my hair in the warm afternoon sun.<\/em><\/p>\n

We are refreshed now and stay a bit longer on this shore, we won\u2019t camp here tonight sensing that further into the canal we will find a special place. Setting as many camps as we have the best places are found on higher ground with trees and accessible firewood. A few night have been spent close to the waters edge where the ground is moist, we sleep well on sand but must wait through the morning for the sun to dry our gear. And the trees are so protecting and communicative \u2026 we are about to meet an older sacred one.<\/p>\n

continue reading on page five…<\/em><\/p>\n

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starting page five…<\/em><\/p>\n

The Sacred Tree and a Haunted Night<\/strong><\/p>\n

Not too far into our paddle as the sun starts to set we notice the largest tree we\u2019ve yet seen. Most of the river the forests have been harvested and replanted, there are larger trees but nothing to compare to the grand lady we are to meet. Her long roots hug the high shore line and we see she reigns over a perfect camping ground.<\/p>\n

Our routine of unpacking the kayak and setting camp is accomplished in no time. A fire is lit and wood is gathered, it is then that the Tree speaks to us both and I find myself embracing her wide girth. Cristian has spoken, \u201cShe wants to talk to you.\u201d I sit at her base smoking my cigarette and sipping some fresh Romanian wine and thus she speaks in the silent way of trees. There is a recognition that she is about 250 years old and that there are very few of her age left, she lets me know that the old ones who hold memory are pleased that there are a few humans remembering what life was like before the destruction began.<\/p>\n

\"ChristineChristine communes with the tree.\u00a0 <\/em><\/p>\n

\u201cCrazy Horse dreamed and went into the world where there is nothing but the spirits of all things. That is the real world that is behind this one, and everything we see here is something like a shadow from that one.\u201d\u00a0 \u2015 Black Elk<\/em><\/p>\n

I have found that when communicating with the natural world it is necessary not to try to make conversation, better to simply sit and allow the messages to filter through any barriers for they arrive in the most subtle language. During this night we were to experience some rather bizarre and not so subtle messages.<\/p>\n

We are feeling the accumulation of tiredness tonight though inwardly we feel light as feathers as we slip into the sanctuary of our tent for a good night’s rest expecting the quiet and peace that surrounds us with the promise of a deep night’s sleep.<\/p>\n

Sometime after midnight I am awakened to a horrible screeching sound, in my semi-awake state I imagine that an animal has been caught as prey and is fighting for its life, this sound fills the whole of the area in one moment close and in another I hear it across the canal. It continues like this for long drawn out minutes not abating though I can’t rise myself to full alertness to investigate. Laying like this with my eyes closed I perceive the bare feet of a man approach our tent as I simply observe as he draws closer, he is curious as to who these intruders are and while I feel no fear I don’t sense him as benevolent, more like a guardian who dislikes our presence. In the next moment there are dark shadows swirling around our tent, again no fear arises as I reach out in my dream body to the Tree knowing her protection and she reassures me that no harm can come to us. What I intuit is that this place was once used for ceremony and ritual, the memory is preserved by the Tree herself, perhaps the man was killed here\u2026 The keening across the water continues and I allow myself to let this spirit man know we will not interrupt the space as soon as I do this he retreats along with the dark shadows. Eventually I slip back to sleep not having ever aroused myself enough to question what was just experienced.<\/p>\n

Waking in the dawning morning light I make my coffee and sit in silent contemplation, the view is pristine and peaceful as our kayak sits calmly framed in the over hanging boughs of the trees and the water is still and mirror like.<\/p>\n

\"TreeKayak framed by the boughs of trees.<\/em><\/p>\n

When Cristian wakes up and after his first coffee I mention what I experienced during the night, it turns out I wasn’t dreaming for he too heard the screeches and thought there were two large owls in the tree over our head, he too saw the spirit of the man and dark shadows. We are accustomed to not interpret or try to figure things out so we simply acknowledged that we didn’t land on this spot by accident, something was remembered and something was rectified, we no longer try to find the linear explanation content to let be what is and move on.<\/p>\n

We are in for a long paddle today for we have chosen a circuitous route in still waters. There are moments when the body rebels and lets the mind know that enough is enough, even so we paddle on wanting to reach our next destination, the port town of Sulina and finally the Black Sea. The longing for the sea is growing in Cristian and I feel his impatience and then his surrender to the eternity of now.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_4555\"Morning sun through the branches of the sacred tree.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"KayakBetty and sometimes Blue waits quietly for the next leg as the sun rises.<\/em><\/p>\n

A Lake on the Delta<\/strong><\/p>\n

We’ve entered an enchanted place of wildlife where quiet water, marshlands and overhanging trees along with the slow paddle allow us to absorb what we are seeing. We are headed for an interior lake one of the many that are part of the delta network, we need to cross it and find the canal that will take us back to the main branch of the Danube that leads us to port of Sulina.<\/p>\n

As our movements are lazy at the beginning of the day we were making slow time. When we reach another wider channel where we would again turn North a gathering of rustic hotels is discovered a place where tourists were loading and unloading unyielding suitcases from the speedboats that whisked them to this destination. We stopped for a beer and I bought myself an ice cream bar its creamy sweetness soothing any body complaints . Sitting on the hotel’s fishing dock we observed “tourism” which amounts to people being shuffled around in groups, safety first as they all wore identifying bulky bright orange life jackets and chattered away in language nonsensical to our ears.<\/p>\n

Here is a good place to mention that Cristian and I had become photo-opts for these gaggles of people having cameras and phones pointed at us while our images were captured to be taken home as some souvenir. I now really know why native people so dislike this invasion of their privacy for we weren’t visiting as tourists, it was more of a sacred pilgrimage and our dislike of such noisy invasive interruptions had steadily grown.<\/p>\n

Somewhat rested we return to the canal that enters the lake, it is an easy paddle and in one breathtaking moment we experience the beauty of the open delta, spacious water and birds, birds, birds! The sense of delight and fulfillment is from the beyond not even the photos can capture what felt like flying.<\/p>\n

My iPhone was always kept hanging around my neck and on this occasion I couldn’t stop taking photos. An inner chuckle arises for I wonder now if birds feel we are invading their privacy and I am sure they do but not in the grumbling human way.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_4575\"The vistas open wide.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"AHundreds of seagulls take flight.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"EgretEgret on submerged log.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"EgretEgret taking flight.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"CristianCristian at the helm.<\/em><\/p>\n

We\u2019ve made it so far now, figuring over 500 km and still more to go. The wind picked up over the expanse of the water we are sailing on, it is now necessary that I find the opening to the cnal on the other shore but using Google maps has several issues, number one is that at a certain distance from the shoreline it stops tracking your position, another one is that when you zoom in and out you lose certain features like names of towns and identifying landmarks. I had determined our course at an 11:00 angle across the lake and the wind was taking us along at a nice clip when I discovered several other outlets or so it seemed for this wasn\u2019t the first or last time Google maps played with my perception. Not being completely sure I tossed the phone to Cristian to check for he had originally plotted our course, in those few minutes he looked the kayak was blown in a new direction and Google stopped tracking us. Oh bother! Given the phone back we were forced to use our eyes the best we could but now in the middle of a semi circular lake nothing was for sure. It was also growing late in the evening and we needed to find a spot to set our tent for the night.<\/p>\n

We both had determined that we saw an opening and sure enough a small boat was coming from that area so off we went in that direction only to discover it was an shallow inlet with no way through. We paddled a short distance on the shoreline until we found a site that only grace could have provided us with. A bit muddy on the landing but under a grove of trees someone had built a multi-layered bed of dried rushes, an old fashion mattress to set our tent upon. Not only that we found five bottles of sealed water, always at a premium as you can only carry so much water on a kayak.<\/p>\n

The campfire blazing I roasted an eggplant, a red pepper, some onion and garlic then smothered them with tomato sauce, served with black olives and warmed bread spread with butter we had a feast which we enjoyed with the last half of a bottle of wine. It is amazing to find out what can be done over an open fire for often during the trip I had thought about mass consumerism and all the appliances and gadgets so many kitchens have. My love of simplicity has grown in leaps and bounds.<\/p>\n

There was a chance of rain the next day and we slept well deciding this was another good place to wait out a squall should one arise. Our solar powered lantern lit the tent with a soft glow as we spent some time sharing our perceptions of this blessed day, even losing our course we were found.<\/p>\n

Our tent really had become our sanctuary for every night we felt the thin fabric encase us in a private safe space. Sometimes lit with a small candle or a lantern, on other nights we welcomed the pitch darkness and gazed silently at the stars overhead. If anyone were around to hear us it would have been our whispers and laughter for every night we felt blessed – even the most arduous ones.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_4604\"Our tent sanctuary with a view of the dome.<\/em><\/p>\n

The Enchanted Delta and The Long Stretch to Reach Sulina.
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

We started early the next morning as the day dawned calm and we had a lake to cross and a canal to find. It wasn’t too hard when we discovered we had actually gone in a near opposite direction so off we set happy for a good night’s sleep and getting our bearings back.<\/p>\n

Entering the canal we floated into a fairy book world of green frogs hopping along on top of water lily pads, flowering plants graced the shore as the morning light shining through the dense foliage with birds of every size and color swooping ahead of us as we floated along almost effortlessly.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_4654\"Calm waters greet our day.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"FullSizeRender(8)\"The sun peeks through the dense foliage creating a magical effect.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"EnchantedAn enchanted dwelling at the opening of the canal.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"LilyWater lilies grew along both banks.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"LilyWater lilies and trying to catch a photo of a frog.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"PurplePurple flowers grace the higher shore.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"FullSizeRender(7)\"Managed to catch a shot of this fellow before he took flight.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"LotusThere were only a few so to find a white lotus blossom was special.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"IMG_4746\"Much like the rose we are to find later, this blossom broke off while our kayak skidded by. Cristian reached over and handed it to me.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"IMG_4623\"Christine prepares breakfast on board.<\/em><\/p>\n

I had become an avid photographer but what overrode that was my love of floating peacefully without any activity. This gentle day I was able to sit on the bow and make our breakfast of the best yogurt in the world (cow, goat and sheep milk combined) mixed with a few scoops of organic vegan protein powder sweetened with sour cherry jam.<\/p>\n

Every day was special but this one glowed deep in the heart of wonder. From the fresh morning start we are refreshed and determined to make Sulina for the night but had many kilometers ahead of us. Here our journey continues and so does our flow, its become so fascinating to allow the ways of the universe to take you where she wants and the dynamics were about to change.<\/p>\n

The Port of Sulina<\/strong><\/p>\n

We reached Sulina late afternoon, tired and dreaming of a romantic dinner of fish, a glass of wine and Cristian wanted to buy me a rose. We had found a camp site just before town but decided to go the last 2 kilometers and find that dinner. Well… things didn’t go that way as we found ourselves with strong headwinds, lots of ships going in both directions and on reaching Sulina a high cement dock that ran several kilometers of shoreline not suitable to dock our kayak even though we made one attempt which we had to abandon.<\/p>\n

We continued past town and I swear Google maps once again played with me as I clearly saw a short channel to a small lake, but oh no! what I saw as a lake was the Black Sea with gusting wind tossing up high waves directly in our faces. So we back paddled the short distance to the main river tired and discouraged. Cristian ready to throw the tent up anywhere suggested a spot that was barely wide enough for our tent surrounded by tall wind whipped rushes growing around the narrow space my whine was “I feel like crying and no I won’t sleep here tonight.” I guess the threat of my tears was enough for us to brave whatever we had to endure to find somewhere more suitable and comfortable.<\/p>\n

We had hit a vortex of water entering the canal but on the way out it wouldn’t let us exit, we were spun around in circles\u00a0 finally landing on the side of a gentleman’s boat which he was fishing from, this proved to be our fortune as he offered to tow us out to a sheltered harbor.<\/p>\n

\"FullSizeRender(11)\"Towed to safe harbor.<\/em><\/p>\n

We gratefully accepted and were towed to a protected harbor with several Bed and Breakfast type hotels where we rented a room with a real bed, had a hot shower and were served scrumptious fish soup, hearty bread and lots of butter.<\/p>\n

When I woke up in the morning I felt totally out of my body and dizzy. I\u2019ve experienced this before as it feels like you are energetically drained to the core. I had no choice but to lay down and when I did it occurred to me to accept these colliding energies without any battle and as I did I felt myself pulled into a place I had never visited before, it felt like I was going down, down, down into the Earth herself. The dizziness was due to the whole world being inverted, what was up, the sky, the stars was down and vice-versa, the waters, the ocean floated above me\u2026 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

It felt like going through the water\u2019s reflection to the other side where I was greeted by a vision so ethereal that it remains elusive. The colors were different, more vibrant and it was like being in an endless high cavern with its own source of light. As I floated in this space many forms came in and out of view, trees, birds, animals and even people all infused with a peaceful aura of beautiful light. My mind wanted to tell me a story though that wasn\u2019t allowed, I could say it felt like I went through heaven\u2019s gate or had I entered Inner Earth. These thoughts are relatively meaningless as they are only labels put on experiences to define and limit them. All I knew was that my energy rearranged itself, I may have fallen to sleep for when I got up I was renewed and grateful for being allowed a look on the inside.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

continue reading on page six…<\/em><\/p>\n

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starting page six…<\/em><\/p>\n

We had work to do on the kayak to make her sea ready so we decided to stay another day since the rooms were all booked for the next night we were allowed to set up our tent on the grass outside.<\/p>\n

We also had that romantic dinner and I was even gifted a rose one that I had leaned over to sniff and it fell off the stem at my feet! I braided in my hair and wore it for three days while it dried then floated the petals downstream to Cristian at the aft of the kayak.<\/p>\n

\"ChristineChristine wears the gift of a rose in her hair.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"image122\"Cristian relishes a beer knowing we reach his beloved Black Sea soon.<\/em><\/p>\n

That night we walked to town and watched a huge ship dock which was impressive to see such a hulk be steered with such grace that it barely kissed the dock when they were finished. We spotted ships from Istanbul, Italy and Bulgaria, there is the romance with distant ports that is part of our collective memory.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_4715\"The port of Sulina at sunset watching the ships dock.<\/em><\/p>\n

We Reach the Black Sea and Journey\u2019s End<\/strong><\/p>\n

This morning was a favorable one for returning to the river, blue skies and no wind which by now are cherished omens. I reach over to wake Cristian and he is burning with a fever even so he accepts my offer of some coffee. He had woken in the middle of the night nauseous with aches and pains. Fortunately he had worked on the kayak the day before so all we needed to do was load her something he was insisting on in spite of feeling so ill.<\/p>\n

I am now much more helpful having learned the capabilities and structure of our little boat so I go about doing what I can to tie the water proof bags on the pontoons and make sure we have all snugly aboard and packed. Cristi sits face down turned on an abandoned boat and asks for more time. I don\u2019t do healing work any more but am given permission to work on him, my past training takes over and I find the right places to release the knotted energies and calm the fever. We are both grateful that in about fifteen minutes he feels much better, at least the nausea is gone.<\/p>\n

\"image126\"Blue is sea ready with her sail up.<\/em><\/p>\n

It is now later than we hoped for our start, with Cristian\u2019s consent we push off from shore once again. We\u2019ve decided on the channel that runs parallel to the sea as the exit from Sulina since the main river is full of ships and we hear there is a rock jetty on reaching the sea that we would have to navigate. It\u2019s hard paddling the first hour as the wind blows steady off the nearby sea. We reach the channel within an hour and step into the rhythm of our oars hitting the water with a soft wind at our backs.<\/p>\n

This channel will take us to Sf\u00e2ntu Gheorghe (Saint George) where we plan to enter the Black Sea. Other than having to take our sail down once to pass under a bridge we make good time, Cristian is feeling better as we move along and the sun warms our tired bones.<\/p>\n

We reach Sf\u00e2ntu Gheorghe and decide to have a meal for the day ahead will be long and we may not make our destination until night fall. Once again I adore the cuisine of Romania, always fresh and delicious. We finish our stay visiting the local bakery where we purchase a loaf of bread that has been baked in an wood burning oven.<\/p>\n

Everything feels good now as we untie from the dock and make our turn out it is then we see Willem standing above us on the dock with a big smile on his face. We pull closer to explain what had happened when we lost our rudder and express our apology for not being able to contact him, I had finally sent an email just an hour before. Cristian had said before we left Sulina that he felt we would meet Willem in St. George and there he was!<\/p>\n

\"image128\"We meet Willem again after his close call with death the day before.<\/em><\/p>\n

We are gladdened to meet this beautiful courageous man again and even more so as he tells us he almost drowned at sea the day before. His mission was to deliver a special stone for his wife to a remote place, he was met by high waves that washed over his kayak again and again. Only the strength and determination he had earned during his journey saved him, he was obviously shaken but recovering when we said our goodbyes. Like he said to us on our previous meeting, \u201cYou meet yourself on journeys like these.\u201d<\/p>\n

We resume our travels as the Black Sea is just ahead, taking a short canal we find ourselves in a no man\u2019s land of marshes, rushes with seagulls cawing overhead. On the map it looks like the sea though we soon realize that we are gently entering the sea as fresh water is slowly turning salty.<\/p>\n

\"image130\"<\/p>\n

We see ahead that the water is changing color and within some minutes we are sailing along on the Black Sea a steady wind at our backs and spirits rising with each gust that moves us quickly along now.<\/p>\n

\"Sailing\"The open waters of the Black Sea.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"image133\"A most contented Cristian sailing on his beloved sea.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"SeaFar from land but within our sight.<\/em><\/p>\n

For hours we sail as dreams of ancient mariners catch my imagination, wondering how much courage and fortitude it must have taken to cross an ocean losing sight of land for months on end.<\/p>\n

There are moments we drift closer to shore thinking perhaps to camp for the night\u00a0 but we have a place mapped and will try to reach it. The name is Peri\u0219or and it is designated as a hotel and resort we are thinking that maybe we will find a room though we\u2019ve grown so accustomed to our tent and fire that this idea loses its appeal. I also notice that there is another fresh water canal nearby and we may have to go inland again as the weather is forecast to turn with strong wind at our head and rain.<\/p>\n

We keep our bearings and notice that there is a cell or microwave tower which we choose as our landmark. The sun is lowering in the sky too so we know we have to make landfall before night.<\/p>\n

\"image138\"Our landmark in the setting sun.<\/em><\/p>\n

As we approach land we are once again given over to the enchantment of the natural world and our connection to it \u2026 there are thousands of birds lining the shore and they take flight in waves of wings as we pass, I see them as a welcoming dancing flock dressed in their finest.<\/p>\n

We see the buildings now and are tacking to shore when I notice a dolphin surface just over the bow. I practically jump to standing with excitement for I never expected this, we scan the waters in front and to the side of us knowing we may catch a glimpse again when two dolphins surface playfully at our side and I manage to capture them in motion. As anyone who has been around dolphins knows just how amazing they are, nothing could have been more magical.<\/p>\n

\"image140\"A pair of dolphins surface along side our kayak as we reach shore.<\/em><\/p>\n

We make landfall and this is what we see as we step ashore, how much more perfect does it get? I get goose bumps now remembering these moments for they are the ones you want to last forever and yet know that they can\u2019t be held on to.<\/p>\n

\"image142\"“I Love you” is written in Romanian in the sand as the sun sets to the West.<\/em><\/p>\n

We set what is to be our last camp for Cristian must return to Bucharest by Sunday. We knew the journey would end eventually so we spend the night around our campfire allowing the fullness of what we accomplished sink deeply into our very marrow. It wasn\u2019t epic really but it brought us so much fulfillment that the idea of becoming water gypsies fills our dreaming souls.<\/p>\n

We sleep the deepest sleep as we listen to the waves come to shore, there is no sound more soothing to those caught in the realms of wander lust. I will end this journal with moments captured as images as we bid our friends a fair adieu.<\/p>\n

…until the next chapter for the journey never ends.<\/p>\n

\"image144\"The sun’s first rays soaked in while sipping my morning coffee and a walk along the sea shore.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"IMG_4868\"Driftwood at sunrise on the Black Sea.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"IMG_4854\"The hotel the sea took back.
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

\"IMG_4859\"A solitary pensive morning walk.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"FullSizeRender(9)\"Cristian saying goodbye to his beloved sea.
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

\"IMG_4861(1)\"Shells<\/em><\/p>\n

\"Anchor\"We will surely pull anchor…<\/em><\/p>\n

\"Sail…to set our sail again.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"IMG_4899\"…for dreamers there is always a new horizon.<\/em><\/p>\n

\u201cAnd forget not that the earth delights to feel your bare feet and the winds long to play with your hair.\u201d <\/em>
\n\u2015 Kahlil Gibran, The Prophet<\/em><\/p>\n

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Preface: Some say that life is a journey while others state that we are eternal and all of our experiences<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":3322,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[9,179],"tags":[43,16,93],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.earthempaths.net\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3363"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.earthempaths.net\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.earthempaths.net\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.earthempaths.net\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.earthempaths.net\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3363"}],"version-history":[{"count":117,"href":"https:\/\/www.earthempaths.net\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3363\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3667,"href":"https:\/\/www.earthempaths.net\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3363\/revisions\/3667"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.earthempaths.net\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3322"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.earthempaths.net\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3363"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.earthempaths.net\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3363"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.earthempaths.net\/wp\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3363"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}